Rural women of erstwhile Bengal (present-day West Bengal, Odisha, and Bangladesh) carry forward the centuries-old tradition of stitching beautiful patchwork quilts from rags called ‘Kantha.’ This art of running stitch embroidery was passed down in learning and dowry from mother to daughter and can be traced back to as early as 1500 BCE. The term ‘kantha’ seems to be an adulteration of the Sanskrit term ‘kontha’ which translates as ‘rags’ and refers to the embroidery technique as well as the final product.
Historically, textile weaving was among the most labor-intensive industries calling for great skill. Therefore, textiles were valued and recycled. Traditionally, old cotton saris, lungis, and dhotis which became extremely soft from repeated use were used to make Kanthas, with the thread for stitching being drawn out of the fabric itself. The art involved layering 5-7 layers of cloth and covering the entire cloth with a running stitch to provide strength. It could take the women months and even years to complete one kantha.
The majority of kantha was used as light blankets in mild Bengali winters. Another use was for swaddling babies. Other uses included making satchels, floor covers, prayer mats, or pillow covers. To make kantha, the fabric is first cut to shape and layered to achieve the desired thickness. Layers are spread on the ground and ironed. Some loose basting stitches are made along the edges to hold the fabric layers together. The finer kantha is then made, starting from one corner and making short, parallel running lines to avoid creases and warping in the fabric.
